Ponferrada

Hello all!

First off-thanks so much for the comments. It truly is the highlight of our boring nights in the albergues to find an open computer and see that you guys were thinking of us (and even visited my puppy to make sure he got lots of love!) while we were away.

So... since we last updated we´ve made great progress. Dan is feeling much better with both his feet and stomach, he even said that today was his best day yet. I got my very first blister on my heel, but it keeps coming back. Luckily it isn´t in a spot where I feel it very often so it´s not really bothering me.

I will always remember the town of Rabanal del Camino. We were in a little bar next to our albergue which was crammed full of peregrinos and townspeople, everyone rooting on the edge of their seats for Spain except for two poor pilgrims from the Netherlands who happened to be in town. It was absolutely amazing to be there when they finally scored a goal, and when the clock wound down and they won. It felt so beautiful to be a part of something like that, but we´re so glad that we were in a small town and not in a major city because you could hear the fireworks going off from Astorga which was 20 kilometers away and I´m sure they partied like crazy all night.

We´ve met more Americans now which is pretty comforting because by now our brains need a break from so much Spanish. We are staying in a 4 bed room in Ponferrada with a man from Iowa. Our first Midwesterner! He´s also doing his dissertation on the Camino.

Before coming to Ponferrada we had to cross over a mountain range where the Iron Cross was to deposit our rocks. It was so cold on the mountains that I finally brokw out my jacket and long underwear top to stay warm... and I still broke out in hives. We arrived at the cross at around 9 am and I got all choked up to think about it, but held it together. We have some beautiful pictures of our rocks mixing in with the others on this giant (around 15 feet) mound of rocks which supported the cross. People had written messages to their loved ones who had passed on and tied flags and other items to the pole itself. But we just left rocks and I still felt like I had left my mark.

After the Iron Cross we had a really rough and whiny (on my part) descent into Dan´s favorite town thus far. It was midway down the mountain with beautiful views of the surrounding mountains, the clouds, and the valley below with Ponferrada 16 km away. It was chilly, but quiet and absolutely gorgeous.

Coming down into Ponferrada we saw a tombstone. We had seen several others on the Camino but this on e was for an American. People have died doing this trek and it´s very odd to be reminded of that fact. Granted, the man was 78 years old.. so I think we´ll be okay.

We have officially plotted out the remainder of our trip. We´re going to try to do about 20 km a day and we will... after much debating... be arriving in Santiago for the holiest day of the year, July 25th. We will be there to celebrate St. James´ day with thousands of other people. It is going to be incredible I´m sure.. and to make sure we don´t have to sleep out in a park (or in a hallway... long story) we´ve already reserved a hotel and two tickets to fly to London on the 27th.

2 minutes left... I love you all and hope St. Louis is treating you well. Miss you and see you in less than a month!